Handsome Coffee's espresso lives up to its name.

Behold my new stash, courtesy of espressoNEAT in Darien, Connecticut.  But this isn't just any almost-$20 bean bag: this double dime of demitasse is the beautiful brainchild of none other than Intelligentsia veterans Tyler Wells, Chris Owens and 2010 World Barista Champion Michael Phillips.

And it's hot, even on ice.

Last Spring, the talented trio ditched the revered Chicago roast house, went west and poured their hearts into Handsome Coffee Roasters in Los Angeles, and their reputation is spreading faster than their 1964 Ford Falcon van—which looks something like a decaffeinated Mystery Machine—could possibly travel.  All the more impressive considering their alma mater's lead role in the local caffeine scene, with three coffee bars and a full-fledged commercial roastery credentialing the Smog City as serious Intelly turf.

After Phillips worked a guest shift at the promontory Gold Coast perk point last month, it was only natural NEAT, in its regularly rotation of only the awesome artisinal roasteries (Handsome and Portland, OR's Coava, as of latest), would give Handsome a shot.  So when I went to restock on Black Cat and saw Handsome espresso roast on the shelves instead, I figured I'd grab a bag and pull a few. 

Just grinding the stuff, the tongue-tantalizing aromatic release from my Baratza was foreboding.  Tamping was almost torturous.  One of those smells you wish you could eat whole, but like a Yankee Candle or your girlfriend's cinnamon roll-scented lotion from Bath & Body Works, know the actual source would taste quite antithetically.  (Not that I'm entirely convinced someone hasn't tried eating scented wax before—namely this guy).

The best word to describe this roast is breadth.  A breadth of flavor and fullness on the tongue.  A breadth of all the elements in a good espresso blend.  A breadth of awesome.  A deep, caramel-y crema packing a pleasantly medium punch but bold sweetness.  It had true depth, and I dug it.  Imagine a perfect slice of cheesecake that isn't too rich, isn't too bland, but is somehow just in the zone.  Like that, only not cheesecake.

A Handsome cuppa indeed.